You’ve asked for Spain more than any other country in this series, so this one’s for you. We’re heading to Madrid.
Confession: I’ve never been to Madrid. Yes, I studied abroad in Barcelona and yes, I went back five more times after that, and somehow never once hopped over to Madrid, which feels kind of crazy now that I’m typing it out.
I don’t have a good excuse. But every friend who’s gone with their kids has come back raving, and that’s all the convincing I need.
If you’re eyeing Spain, I’m guessing language immersion is high on your list. Same here, which is why we did San Sebastian this past summer, and it’s the biggest reason Madrid appeals to me now. (TBH, my personal must-have is being near water. But Madrid has a Paris-level amount to do, plus Spanish everywhere, so I could be convinced it’s the ideal summer for our family.)
My kids do best in cities with lots of playgrounds, museums, and “kid things” to do, and Madrid has allll of it. It’s not a beach town, but it makes up for it with giant parks, daylight until 9:30pm, and a train that drops you in a medieval city in half an hour.
So if you loved the idea of San Sebastián but want the big-city version of Spain, keep reading, this one’s for you.
Getting There & Getting Settled
Flying in: You’ll land at Madrid-Barajas (MAD). Several U.S. cities fly nonstop, and Madrid is a major hub, so connections from smaller cities are easy.
Airport to apartment: Take the taxi. It’s a flat €33 to anywhere inside the M-30 ring road, luggage included, and after an overnight flight with kids you have 100% earned it.
Where the camps are: Most of the international school camps on this list are in La Moraleja, a suburb about 15 km north of the center. The rest are in Hortaleza, Conde de Orgaz, and downtown.
So you kind of have to pick your vibe. Live in the north for a quick camp run and maybe a pool, or live in the center for the city life and a longer commute (ask each camp if it runs a bus).
Strollers, scooters, and cars: The old center is hilly and cobbled, so bring a light, foldable stroller, and pack the scooters for Madrid Río’s car-free riverside path. Skip the car, since central Madrid has paid parking and restricted zones and transit goes nearly everywhere.
Housing
Madrid: A furnished 2 to 3 bedroom apartment in a central, camp-friendly neighborhood like Chamberí, Salamanca, or Retiro runs roughly €3,000 to €5,500 a month on mid-term rental sites. Prices drop in the outer districts, but you give up walkability and Metro access.
La Moraleja & the northern suburbs: The suburbs around the international schools (La Moraleja, Alcobendas, Conde de Orgaz) have more space, and some rentals come with a pool. Furnished inventory is thinner than in the center, so start looking early.
One boring but important note (sorry): Spain now requires short-term rentals to carry a registration number, and Madrid is strict about it. For four to eight weeks, look for a seasonal contract through an established property manager.
What I’d ask every host:
Is there an elevator? Those gorgeous old buildings in the center often don’t. Picture four flights of stairs with a sleeping toddler and a week of groceries. Hard pass.
Is there A/C, and does it cool every bedroom? Madrid heat is no joke, like 100°F no joke. Ask for photos, because “A/C” can mean real wall units or one sad portable fan in the living room.
Which way do the windows face, and are there shutters? Top-floor, west-facing rooms get hot in the afternoon. Exterior shutters (persianas) keep a room noticeably cooler.
What You’ll Eat (and When)
Croquetas: Creamy ham or cheese fritters, and if your kid eats one thing in Spain, it will be this. I’d bet money on it.
Churros con chocolate: Fried dough dunked in thick hot chocolate. Madrileños eat them at merienda and after midnight, even in July, and San Ginés is the famous spot.
The daily schedule:
Breakfast, 8 to 9:30am: Coffee and tostada con tomate or a pastry. Light and quick, and camp breakfast clubs run roughly 8 to 9am.
Lunch, 2 to 3:30pm: The big meal of the day, and many restaurants offer a menú del día, a set three-course lunch. Camps serve lunch earlier, around 12 to 2:30pm.
Merienda, 5:30 to 6:30pm: The snack that saves the day: a bocadillo, fruit, or chocolate. It lands right at camp pickup, so keep one in your bag at all times.
Dinner, 9 to 10:30pm: Restaurants don’t fill up until 9pm. The move: a light dinner at home around 8pm on camp nights, and late tapas on weekends when bedtime is more of a suggestion lol.
With the Kids
El Retiro: Madrid’s version of Central Park, with playgrounds, rowboats on the big lake, and weekend puppet shows. Go early, before the heat sets in.
Madrid Río: Huge slides built into the hillside, splash zones, and playgrounds along the river, all free. This is the one I already know my kids would never want to leave, sooo bring snacks.
Zoo Aquarium de Madrid: In Casa de Campo, with giant pandas and a big aquarium on one ticket. Book online ahead of time and go early.
Faunia: A nature park built around different ecosystems, with penguins and a rainforest dome. It’s a great backup for the days when it’s too hot to function (aka most of July).
Parque de Atracciones & Parque Warner: The Parque de Atracciones in Casa de Campo has rides, including a few water rides. Parque Warner is a full day trip out of the city, and its Warner Beach water park opens in summer.
Public pools: Madrid’s municipal pools open for summer, and Casa de Campo has big outdoor ones. Check hours and rules before you go, since they vary by pool.
Without the Kids
A rooftop at sunset: The Círculo de Bellas Artes terrace is the classic, and sunset is around 9:30pm. Order a vermouth and pretend you live here, obviously.
The Golden Triangle of Art: The Prado, Reina Sofía, and Thyssen sit within a few blocks of each other, so pick one for a quiet, kid-free afternoon.
Veranos de la Villa: The city’s summer festival fills July and August with outdoor concerts, dance, theater, and film across Madrid. Many events are free, and it works with or without the kids.
El Rastro and La Latina on a Sunday: Browse the flea market in the morning, then settle into tapas bars on Calle de la Cava Baja. If I get one kid-free day in Madrid, this is 1000% how I’m spending it.
A flamenco show: Book a late show at a tablao like Corral de la Morería, then book the babysitter. Shows start late, so this is a nap-in-the-afternoon kind of night, and yes, moms are allowed to nap.
Templo de Debod at sunset: An ancient Egyptian temple in the middle of a Madrid park, free to see from the outside, with a wide view west over the city as the sun goes down.
Local Babysitting Support
Babysits is the easiest way to find vetted sitters in Madrid. It lists thousands of them, many are university students, and profiles show experience, languages, and reviews. Expect about €8 to €15 an hour, with most around €10. Bonus: a Spanish-speaking sitter means extra immersion for the kids (and TBH maybe for you too).
Weekend Escapes
Madrid sits right in the middle of Spain, so half the country is a short train ride away. Leave Saturday morning, skip the rental car, and be back for a (very, very late) Sunday dinner.
Fair warning: these towns are as hot as Madrid, sometimes hotter. Go early, plan a shady or indoor afternoon, and book train seats ahead, because summer weekends sell out.
Segovia: About 28 minutes by high-speed train from Chamartín to Segovia-Guiomar, then a bus into town because the station sits outside the center. The Roman aqueduct is the main event, and kids can walk right underneath it. Save time for the castle, which looks like it came straight out of a storybook.
Toledo: About 33 minutes by Avant train from Atocha, with fares from around €14 each way. Seats sell out, so book ahead. It’s a walled hilltop city with narrow streets, and public escalators carry you up the hill. I already know my kids would ride them on repeat, like 47 times.
Sierra de Guadarrama: About an hour north of the city, the mountains are noticeably cooler and make an easy day trip when Madrid is brutal.
Valencia: About 1 hour 40 minutes by AVE from Atocha, and the easiest beach weekend from Madrid. Rent bikes along the old riverbed gardens, spend an afternoon at the City of Arts and Sciences, and eat paella where it was invented.
The Madrid Camp List
Below for paid subscribers: all 7 Madrid camps with ages, hours, dates, and pricing, including two that take kids as young as 1. Start mapping your weeks now, because the good ones fill up fast.